Fontainebleau (or ‘Font’ for those who know the area best) is situated 65km south of Paris and has to be described one of the best bouldering and climbing areas in Europe, if not the the world. The bouldering is found in the forests that surround city of Fontainebleau which in turn makes for a magical and unique setting. The sandstone rock is of fantastic quality and the landings are generally soft and sandy. The climbing technique required for bouldering involves excellent skills, balance, footwork and technique. (The technical problems are just that, they require a lot of skill and my brute strength climbing technique was ‘ripped to shreds’ I was forced to learn to adapt.)
For those that know Fontainebleau even if its just by reputation know of the four legendary bolders or problems that exist. They are the “Big Boss’, “Tristesse”, “Big Golden” and “Fourmis Rouge”, four mythical problems on four enormous boulders that stand there, waiting for the next climber who follows their call. For those of us that are less developed as climbers there is still something to suit everyone. There are a range of circuits that have been developed and are colour coded, they lead you from boulder problem to boulder problem. There are literally thousands of them for every level of rock climber. The yellow circuits are for the inexperienced climber; to orange, blue and red circuits for intermediate climbers; and white and black circuits offer the top end bouldering experience. There are also many individual extreme problems outside of the circuits, generally graded at Font 8a and above!
For those that know Fontainebleau even if its just by reputation know of the four legendary bolders or problems that exist. They are the “Big Boss’, “Tristesse”, “Big Golden” and “Fourmis Rouge”, four mythical problems on four enormous boulders that stand there, waiting for the next climber who follows their call. For those of us that are less developed as climbers there is still something to suit everyone. There are a range of circuits that have been developed and are colour coded, they lead you from boulder problem to boulder problem. There are literally thousands of them for every level of rock climber. The yellow circuits are for the inexperienced climber; to orange, blue and red circuits for intermediate climbers; and white and black circuits offer the top end bouldering experience. There are also many individual extreme problems outside of the circuits, generally graded at Font 8a and above!
The main areas of interest for climbers in Fontainebleau would have to be:
Bas Cuvier & Gorges d' Apremont.Located just off the N7 into Fontainebleau Bas Cuvier was the first set of boulders to be developed and climbing problems assigned it could still be described as Fontainebleau's ‘Piste de resistance’ . There are many classic problems here at all levels with 6 circuits all within the main forest. Apremont is another popular area of the forest as it is such a vast and rugged terrain with an abundance of routes at all grade climbs with 24 different circuits. It is also the closest area to the village of Barbizon, which also has accommodation if required.
The Trois Pignons area.This is probably the largest rock climbing area of the Fontainebleau - with hundreds of square metres of forest, there are white sandy beaches, perfect sandstone boulders, and over 60 different circuits. The landscape of the sand and trees means you are constantly in and out of the shade as you complete a circuit. The sand provides the best and softest landings in the whole area.
This is a good place to be based, as it is very central to all the bouldering. There is also a good campsite in this area call La Musardiere. The campsite is open from mid February to the end of November. It does get busy during holiday season so it is best to book.
Franchard and Fontainebleau.
Located in the main forest area Franchard is one of the most popular sites to climb. The rock is very sharp here, which will test your fingers and you’re edging ability to the full. In total there 15 climbing circuits covering all grades. Included in this is the renound mountain circuit which consists of 6km of easy bouldering. The climbing is linked together to make a very physical experiance amongst the trees and rocky crests. There are also a small number of circuits just outside of Fontainebleau itself mainly to the south and west.
L' Elephant.Near La Chapelle-la-Reine to the southwest of Fontainebleau is the areas most famous boulder - The Elephant. This iconic boulder is seen on many postcards and also has some great problems on it. L' elephant circuit is also excellent though the boulders are generally higher than most other areas of the forest.
It is ideal to go bouldering in Fontainebleau at any time of the year, you will always find either the shade or the sun depending upon the season - it's only the rain that will stop you. The only equipment you need is your boots and a rag or mat to clean the sand off your boots. However many people now use a crash mat and chalk.
There are a couple of guidebooks that cover the bouldering at Fontainebleau. When we went I didn’t have one however in hindsight would defiantly recommend the investment as they are essential to determine the circuits to do and where to find the start of them.
The two local books I found that have been published in English they are Fontainebleau Magique published by Jingo Wobbly. This guidebook has selected 50 medium grade classic bouldering circuits. As well as covering the main popular areas such as Diplodocus and Cul de Chien, It also holds a few secrets that have been forgotten or overlooked by climbers over the years. All circuits and problems are accompanied by excellent diagrams.The other book I have discovered is Fontainebleau Climbs. This purple cover guidebook covers more circuits than the Jingo Wobbly guidebook and again is aimed at the mid range climber.
